a
fashionable mushroom that's big on flavor
 It
was not until the 1990s that the Portobello (sometimes called Portabella)
mushroom became so fashionable. The Portobello is actually an overgrown
Crimini mushroom which, in the process of growing, acquires a very
large and meaty cap. Fashionable or not, I love them because they
are so big on flavor, especially when roasted, grilled or sautéed
at high temperature. Another reason to love them is that they are
now available year-round: not only can they be found in just about
every supermarket, they are also popping up at farmers' markets…
That is a real treat, because, in my book, there's nothing better
than a fresh mushroom.
Speaking of freshness, there are a few rules to observe when selecting
mushrooms. First, avoid the prepackaged ones: especially when they
are wrapped in plastic with no breathing holes. Mushrooms are alive!
They will spoil very quickly when packaged this way, and acquire
a very unpleasant smell and flavor. The best is to pick loose mushrooms
with pale gills (the darker the gills, the older the mushroom).
Second, store them in the refrigerator, in a brown paper bag or
in a dry bowl covered with a damp paper towel. Another rule: do
not wash or soak mushrooms in water. These fungi are like sponges;
they will absorb liquid very quickly-and then, when you cook them,
they will release this liquid and become rubbery… A paper towel
or a mushroom brush is all that's needed to brush off any particles
found on them. (And by the way, those particles are not dirt, they
are simply sterilized peat moss.)
This month's recipe makes the best use of the deep and earthy flavor
of these gorgeous mushrooms. Try to find hand-made mozzarella if
you can… it'll make these flatbread pizzas an even more irresistible
treat!
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For the flatbread pizzas
4 — 10" flour or whole wheat tortillas
1 teaspoon extra virgin olive oil
For the baby Portobellos
2 fresh rosemary sprigs — leaves removed from stems
6 thyme sprigs — leaves removed from stems
4 oregano sprigs — leaves removed from stems
8 large sage leaves — leaves removed from stems
6 parsley sprigs — stems removed
4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 1/4 lb baby Portobello mushrooms (or regular Portobellos) —
stems removed at the base and cut in 1/2" cubes
4 large garlic cloves — skinned and finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon sea salt or to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/4 cup freshly grated Reggiano parmesan
12 oz fresh mozzarella — cut in 1 1/2" x 1/4" slices
12 large basil leaves cut en chiffonade ( 1/16" strips) or
a handful of tiny basil leaves
2 large jellyroll pans — ungreased
Step 1: Put rosemary, thyme, oregano, sage and parsley leaves
on a board and finely chop. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.
Step 2: Heat a large non-stick frying pan over high heat.
Add the oil, butter and Portobello cubes, toss well and sauté for
5 to 7 minutes until golden, tossing from time to time. Add garlic,
chopped herbs, salt and pepper to taste and continue sautéing for
1 minute. Transfer to a large bowl and set aside.
Step 3: Preheat oven to 450°F. Lay 2 tortillas side by side
on each pan and brush top side of each tortilla with olive oil.
Top with the mozzarella slices and the mushrooms. Sprinkle the parmesan
and extra salt and pepper to taste.
Step 4: Bake until edges are golden brown and crisp, about
10 to 12 minutes. Transfer each pizza to a large plate, sprinkle
with the basil en chiffonade or the tiny basil leaves, cut
in 4 slices and serve immediately.
© 2008 viviane bauquet farre — food & style NY LLC
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