the
fruits of Provence
The sky is intensely blue, the air
is warm and filled with sweetness and the fields are bursting with
ripeness. Yes… it's real, I am in Provence! My husband Marc and
I arrived in this gentle and beautiful land only a few days ago,
and already we both feel like we belong here. Every corner is filled
with beauty… so much beauty! Since my goal for this little getaway
was relaxing and cooking with local ingredients, I couldn't have
found a better place to rest my weary bones.
So I am spending my days reading Provençal cookbooks, driving through
the vineyards of Gigondas and Chateauneuf-du-Pape, walking through
medieval villages and of course shopping at local farmers' markets
along the way. Already I have found a couple of truly spectacular
ones, all bursting with the richness of this harvest season.
Aside from the unbelievable fresh and large cèpes (the French
name for porcinis) that just appeared in the markets for the first
time this season only a couple of days ago (a sight that made me
melt!), the fruits of Provence truly stand out. They are so succulent
and fragrant… they are intoxicating! And so I filled my bag with
perfectly ripe poires William (a small and more fragrant
version of our Bartlett pears), fuzzy white peaches, aromatic red
Muscat grapes and plump, fresh black mission figs. Once I got back
to our perfect little cottage here in St. Rémy de Provence, I got
to work. The results were most pleasing and definitely delicious!
The pear and rosemary jam featured here is bursting with
fruitiness. I serve it with a tray of assorted local goat cheeses:
a banon (a semi-ripened raw milk cheese wrapped in chestnut
leaves), a brique, a crottin de Chavignol (aged and
drier in texture) and a delightful fresh crottin covered
in vegetable ash. The pears complement the sweetness of the cheeses
while the rosemary accentuates their earthiness. All in all a fabulous
canapé or an elegant end to a light meal. I serve it with a glass
of local white wine, a 2005 Côte du Rhône Blanc de Blancs from Domaine
Jean David, in Séguret (a region just north of Gigondas) made with
Roussane grapes.
The basil used in the frisée and
basil salad with white peaches and fresh figs has miniature
leaves and an intense flavor. It is commonly used here instead of
the large-leaf sweet basil we are so accustomed to in the States.
It is sold by the plant, and you put it on your windowsill until
you have used it all up… then you buy another plant. The cost for
the generous little shrub is only 2 euros (about $2.50). What a
deal…! I have been plucking at my basil plant for a week now and
it is still perfectly bushy. I love this concept!
Last but not least, aside from the
divine foods and wines this country lavishes upon us, we have also
found the most magnificent cottage, located just a few minutes outside
of the charming and historic town of St. Rémy de Provence in Southern
France (where Van Gogh spent his last year, painting prolifically).
"Le Moulin Entre Deux Mas" is a hamlet of five 16th century homes
actually built upon a Roman aqueduct, all lovingly restored by the
personable and delightful William Moore, an American expatriate
who says he wants to spend the rest of his days here. William has
a gift for making his guests feel at home as soon as they step through
the front door: he is always available to answer any question or
attend to any need - and he leaves warm croissants at our doorsteps
every morning. Yes… it's real, we are in Provence! For more info,
check out his website: www.provenceparadise.com,
and see below the pictures I just took of his gardens.
All the way from Provence, bon appétit!
"Au moulin entre deux mas" 16, avenue
Théodore Aubanel, F-13210 St.-Rémy de Provence, France - Tel/Fax:
+33 432 621 768 - Cell: +33 607 826 663 - web: www.provenceparadise.com
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2 lbs very ripe Bartlett pears peeled, quartered, pits and
core removed, and cut in 1/4" slices
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup turbinado sugar
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 sprigs fresh rosemary leaves removed from stems (or 2 teaspoons
dried rosemary leaves)
2 tablespoons grappa or Poire William
Step 1: Heat a large soup pot over medium-high heat. Add
the pears, lemon juice, sugar, vanilla extract and rosemary. Bring
to a boil and reduce heat to medium-low. Slow-simmer uncovered for
50 to 60 minutes until the juices have almost all evaporated, stirring
from time to time and breaking the slices with a wooden spoon as
they soften.
Step 2: Add the grappa or Poire William and continue to simmer
for 1 minute. Remove from heat and transfer to a bowl to cool to
room temperature.
Serve jam at room temperature with a tray of assorted fresh and
aged goat cheeses, or aged Comté, Gruyère and Pecorino Toscano.
Cook's note: Refrigerate up to 1 week.
© 2006 viviane bauquet farre food & style
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For the vinaigrette
1 1/2 tablespoon aged balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon honey
1/8 teaspoon sea salt freshly ground pepper to taste
1 small shallot skinned, quartered and finely chopped
4 1/2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
For the salad
1 medium white peach pitted and cut in 1/8" slices
4 large fresh black mission figs quartered
2 large handfuls frisée leaves rinsed, spun dry and torn
in 2" pieces
4 branches miniature basil leaves removed from stems and
left whole (or 20 large basil leaves torn in 1" pieces)
1/4 cup sliced almond as garnish toasted (see cook's note)
Step 1: For the vinaigrette, place all ingredients in a
small bowl and whisk until well blended. Set aside.
Step 2: Place frisée and basil in a large bowl and toss with
half the dressing. Place a small mound of the frisée in the center
of each plate. Tuck a few slices of the peach among the greens.
Top with 4 fig quarters. Drizzle with the balance of the dressing.
Garnish with the almonds and freshly ground pepper to taste and
serve immediately.
Cook's note: To toast the almonds,
heat a small skillet at medium-high heat. Add the almond slices
and sauté for 2 to 3 minutes until just golden, tossing frequently.
Transfer to a bowl to cool.
© 2007 viviane bauquet farre food & style NY LLC
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