There's nothing more satisfying or delicious than a perfect, vine-ripened tomato. And no better time than late summer to revel in them! Sure, nowadays you can find beautiful-looking tomatoes on the vine even in January, but when you get them home you'll likely feel let down by their feeble fragrance and pale, pinkish flesh.

In the last decade a most alluring fruit known as the heirloom tomato has been getting the star treatment. Appearing in almost every shape and color, these fruits are not only exquisite to look at, they are also unbelievably delicious. An heirloom tomato is grown from plants that are open-pollinated, meaning it will grow "true to type" from seeds that have been cultivated for at least 50 years. This definition excludes almost every hybrid, or supermarket-variety, tomato.

When choosing tomatoes, always pick fruits that are firm and feel heavy for their size. The skin should be shiny and smooth, not wrinkled or blemished. Buy them a few days before eating them and let them sit in a bowl in a cool place, away from direct sunlight. This will maximize their sweetness and balance their acidity. (Keep them cool, but above all, never refrigerate tomatoes! That will kill off their flavor and aroma.)

The very best source of heirloom tomatoes is your local farmers' market (if you live near Piermont, NY, see the info on mine below). And this month marks the beginning of this most rewarding season — a season that will last until nearly the end of October. So go buy some!

Here is my favorite way to eat heirloom tomatoes: it's a new take on the traditional insalata caprese. It is the essence of simplicity; therefore the quality of the ingredients is paramount. (Make sure to use the very best olive oil you can find!)

* The Piermont Farmers' Market is held every Sunday, 9:30 am to 3 pm, from early June until Thanksgiving, in the M&T Bank parking lot (at the corner of Ash Street and Piermont Ave, right in the center of the village).